à la mode

I just noticed as I typed in the title of this weeks submission that it's the fourth week in a row that I've used a french title... the fact of the matter is I think french is one of the most beautiful languages in the world if not the most beautiful...

I'm going to be discussing very briefly this week fashion and style... as far as à la mode goes I've never really been of the moment  but I've never looked dated or out of style either... but I do love ice cream on pie.

I remember some years ago someone saying that I spent all my money buying clothes at Prada... and I interjected "I don't buy my clothes at Prada I buy them at Hermes because I like good fabric and well made garments"... I still feel that way. There is a passage in Michael Vollbrach's book Nothing Sacred that pretty much sums up of how I feel about much of the fashion industry right now... and Prada in particular...

WHEN TINA BROWN'S TALK ASKED "WHAT'S DESIGN?" MIUCCIA PRADA, CO-OWNER AND DESIGNER OF PRADA, REFLECTED, "DESIGN IS SO COMPLICATED. IT'S TOO SERIOUS TO ANSWER!"

OH PLEASE. BUST DARTS AND BAD HEMLINES RULED FASHION BECAUSE OF THIS KIND OF TOOMMYROT. FASHION DESIGN IN THE LAST DECADE IN OUR LAST MILLENNIUM, WAS RIFE WITH UGLINESS, WITH PEOPLE SPENDING THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS, YEN, PESOS AND FRANCS ON CLOTHES THAT LOOKED JUST LIKE BURGER KING UNIFORMS.

Frankly I don't think much has changed since Mr. Vollbrach published his book... every time I venture out looking for something to buy I find things made out of hideous fabric with substandard workmanship made in China costing an arm and a leg... but I'll get back to this later!

In my opinion fashion design since the times of the ancient Greeks and Romans right up until today is something that is a viewpoint that has been translated from the social, political and economic aspects of the world that is significant to the era and woven into the fabric (so to speak) of every part of life showcasing poverty vs luxury or, sex and religion as well as freedom, dominance, love, or cruelty and intolerance to be understood, accepted or rejected as it happens and evolves...  if that is too esoteric than just consider there are certain fashions suited for celebrating and others for mourning and reflection....Style on the other hand is a more advanced understanding of fashion that distinguishes itself in terms of expression that is both mysterious and powerful; quite simply it's understanding fashion and knowing what best suits you... So Miuccia if you are reading this... it's not really that complicated or serious if you know what you are talking about.

I think one of the first steps in defining style for yourself is understanding how to pick items that suit you best and to know quality and well made garments...

Don't choose colors that go with your hair or eye color you need to understand which  colors best suit your complexion (and also consider the lighting you will be seen in)... for example, unless you have a dark complexion or are tanned white tends to wash out your face and yellow your teeth so ivory tones are sometimes a better choice... Also don't rule out a whole color family... there is a certain shade of green and/or blue that will be just right for you while others won't be as flattering...  the simple way to check is to stand in front of a mirror and hold the color next to your face.

Pay attention to patterns and weaves of fabric, short or slight frames are not best enhanced with big prints or patterns and will be overwhelmed by heavy or bulky fabrics... and consider your age and the condition of your skin as hard dark intense colors will amplify signs of age... but the thing to always remember is that if Taxi Cab Yellow looks horrible next to your face it should not deter you from wearing it at or below the waist if you like it.

Recognizing quality has always been my first consideration... I really don't care who the designer is as long as I like the overall design and quality of the fabric and workmanship.

• Stripes and plaids and patterns should be carefully matched at the seams.
• The seam edges should be finished either by surging or seam binding.
• There should be generous seams of at least a half inch or more.
• All the hardware (buttons, zippers, snaps and trim) should be high quality.
• Neat and well placed button holes that fit the buttons easily but tightly.
• Backing on collars of heavier fabrics to help retain shape.
• Ample even hems.
• Straight even stitching that match or enhance the fabric or pattern.
• Good quality linings that are not attached all the way around. (loose linings wear better and are more comfortable)

With all that in mind it's not only important to try something on for size to make sure it fits properly but it actually suits you... when I'm in the dressing room I turn everything inside out to make sure it's made well by examining the seams, darts and the way it's finished... the vintage Courreges shirt  that I have in my closet is not only beautiful on the outside but it's a work of art in workmanship and attention to detail on the inside.

Almost everything in my closet is an updated classic that can look fresh and interesting for several years with proper care and maintenance... if you keep in mind that you may be spending hundreds of dollars on something and over many years you will wear it hundreds of times, the cost per wear of the item can often take on a new perspective of how much you are spending in relation to how much wear and enjoyment you will get out of it.

I have always enjoyed going to stores and looking at magazines and catalogs to see what's happening and get some inspiration or fresh ideas...

 ... but a few years ago I started to get really discouraged in stores as I was mostly leaving empty handed because there was nothing that I really liked or wanted to spend a fortune on because of the fabric quality or did not have the attention to detail that I require to rationalize spending the amount of money they were charging... So I bought a sewing machine and took sewing classes. I still get some ideas from advertising and such but I wonder what the editors are thinking because most of what they are showing seems to be clothing designed by people who don't understand or care and worn by people who don't have a clue what fashion or style is either... I remember thinking one year looking through the massive September Vogue that the most exciting, innovative, interesting and luxurious looking fashions were J. Crew and Jacqueline Smith for K-Mart... (sigh)

Now I get excited because the sky is the limit as I can buy the quality of fabric in the color or colors I like best and have complete control over  all the details and how it's made and how it fits and how it moves when I do...

 I was really horrible and sloppy and undisciplined when I started, but like everything else in life the more you do something the better you get... so now I love getting inspiration from everything  and everyone around me...  and that is what I think truly defines fashion... and last but not least... always remember to look at yourself in a full length mirror, front and back and if something screams "notice me" or just whispers "something is not quite right"... take it off, it either makes you look like you are trying too hard or that you did not think every detail through of what statement you want to make carefully enough.

But truth be told as much as I like quality clothing, I would still rather be naked at the beach with my toes in the sand people watching and day dreaming, or reading a good book, or having an intelligent conversation, or all of the above while listening to music and laughter... 

See you next week when I'll be discussing some of my favorite beaches around the world so I hope you will join me a la plage!.... Have a wonderful week and be thankful for everything you have and everyone you love.