I just love London... it's one of those rare places where I can spend my entire holiday in the city and surrounding areas or visit other parts of the country or region... there are certain places that no matter how many times I've visited I will go back and see it again and rediscover the additions to the landscape or places, people and things I did not find find on previous visits.
Heathrow Airport is about 15 miles (24km) west of London and is one of the rare places that does not have excellent train service to the city but there is a Heathrow Express that runs to Paddington Station... however you can easily and very time and cost effectively take the tube on the Piccadilly line from Heathrow straight to the heart of central London or by bus or taxi (London's iconic black taxis are not inexpensive but they are probably the most reliable taxi fleet in the world)--- While we are on the subject like most large cities with an underground transport system it's the easiest and fastest way to get around in the city... London has 12 major railway stations that service the outlying areas away from the city and the rest of the country and region.... probably the most well known from books and films are Paddington Station, Kings Cross and Victoria Station.... I have a great deal of experience taking the train from Kings Cross to Wimbledon (it takes about 45 minutes).
In this segment of my travel blogs I'm not going to dispense giving any hotel or restaurant advice or suggestions because it dawned on me with the the internet and all the different options available now like renting a flat or room for a week or so visit... and with the all the restaurant reviews available it might be better to tailor your accommodations and culinary needs to your individual needs, tastes and budget (but I have been fortunate in the past to be stay at Claridge's and enjoy many Sunday meals at the Connaught... and dinner at The Ivy).
Like every place else in the world it's important to understand how the city is laid out and know the different neighborhoods....
Once you have a broad overview of a city and know what you want to do and where you want to go it's important to break it down and figure out by day where and what you want to spend your time... try to keep your activities in one or two neighborhoods each day.
The first summer they offered the tour of Buckingham Palace I jumped at the chance... you don't see anything private but it was well worth it to me... I think they stopped the tours for a while and the last I heard they would be resuming conducting the tours again in the summer of 2017... if you have a chance to see it you should go as it's well worth the cost of admission.
Do I need to see the guided tour again?... not really once was enough but I never tire of seeing the Changing of the Guard in front of the Palace that takes place daily at 11:27 am from April-August and alternate days September-March.
The Tower of London is another must-see if it's your first visit... it served as a prison during the middle ages and it's more illustrious captives included the two princes murdered by order of Richard III and Anne Boleyn the second wife of Henry VIII. It's been a tourist attraction since the 19th century and houses the Crown Jewels... you can get a guided tour by one of the resident 'beefeaters'.
I always like to explore and revisit the green places in any city...
Hyde Park is glorious year round... in July and August it's typically about 75F (22C) Summer has plenty of sunny days but there is also quite a few rainy ones as well... and the winter about 44F (7C) and is always rather damp and can be icy... so whatever time of year you visit bring clothing to deal with sudden changes.
Covent Garden is another favorite of mine... the former market buildings have been transformed into shops, restaurants and bars... and the pedestrian spaces have lively and exuberant street performers....as far as museums I always try to revisit the National Gallery. Museum of London and Victoria & Albert Museum... but I always make time to visit ...
The Tate Gallery... now that the Tate Modern is open with it's collection of works by the likes of Picasso, Rothko and Pollack the Tate showcases British artists through the ages... it is in my opinion the greatest homage to British artists including Spencer, Gainsborough, Hockney and Turner.
As I said you can easily get around the city using the Underground... or Tube...
There are 12 color coded interconnecting lines throughout the city with service from 5:00 am-midnight daily... the biggest problem is overcrowding during peak hours... You can purchase daily travel cards that can be used on buses, tubes and trains but can not be used before 9:30 am and are not valid on night buses... or you can buy a weekly travel card that can be used in zones 1-2 all day and on night buses.
As far as shopping goes... I don't think I have ever left London empty handed as I typically find something in the shopping areas of...
- Bond Street --- the most exclusive area includes Chanel, Gucci, antiques, jewelry and art as well as the auction houses of Sotheby's and Phillips.
- Jermyn Street--- this is where a refined English gentleman buys his suits, shirts and cigars.
- King's Row--- is like a time travel trip back to the swinging 60's and 70's with chic boutiques and restaurants.
- Oxford& Regent Streets--- these two intersecting streets are the essence of London shopping; Oxford is lined with big named chains and department stores and Regent is a bit more elegant and refined.
- Savile Row--- represents the old fashioned bastion of made-to measure and tailored luxury tweeds and suiting.
Harrod's is London's pre-eminent department store with 4.5 acres of floor space selling everything from fashion, toys, pets and sporting goods and the highlight for me are the 17 food halls... Harvey Nichols or 'Harvey Nicks' is younger feeling and has a narrower range of goods to choose and are best known for designer clothing and a fabulous food hall....Fortnum & Mason is very refined and elegant and prides it self as a conveyor of goods to the aristocracy and it's famous food hall on the ground floor is fabulous.... There is also Dickens & Jones, John Lewis, Liberty, Marks & Spencer, Peter Jones and Selfridges. If it's a bargain you are looking for the department stores only have sales twice a year in January and July with reductions of 50% or more. You can reclaim some or all of the VAT (value added tax) for goods leaving the country and can pick up a form from participating stores and shops.
The Bearwick Street Market in Soho has a very old fashioned feeling and offers fruit, vegetables, cheese, bread and spices... The Columbia Road Market is a vibrant flower market and in December sells Christmas trees and mistletoe; it's a bit of a trip on the tube but it's worth it located on Columbia Road E2 but one of my absolute favorites is the Petticoat Lane Market on Middlesex Street E1 that showcases, cheap fashions, knock offs and second hand goods. The Portobello Road Market in Nottinghill has antiques, vintage clothing, fruits, vegetables and household goods. Every Friday the Bermondsey Market sells antiques from 4:00 am - 1:00 pm but go early because the bargains are gone by 5:00.
If you want to go to the theatre head over to the TKTS booth on Leicester Square that sell half-priced tickets to a range of West End productions on a first-come, first-serve basis... If they don't have tickets to the show you want to see you can buy tickets directly from the venues box office... one of my favorite things is buying tickets to watch the Royal Ballet rehearse as it's a fraction of the price of buying a performance ticket.
I know I said I would not be offering restaurant advice but If you are going to London you should have the best Fish & Chips and my favorite place is Rock and Sole at 47 Endell Street WC2... and Pubs--- so many to choose from; just know there are two types; the traditional are typically in centuries old buildings with etched glass, brass and loaded with charm and character and the modern that are new and rather bland... both serve spirits, wine, soft drinks and beer, the tipple of choice comes in two forms: fizzy lager is served cold and flatter, thicker 'bitter' ale is served room temperature. Things have changed since I first started visiting pubs in that the hours of operation are at the discretion of the pub landlord... in some cases they are open 24 hours... One of my favorites is The Trafalgar Tavern.
There is so much more to see and do depending on the time of year you visit...from ice skating at Somerset House during Christmas... A day in Greenwich or attending a Cricket or Tennis match or Rugby and Football... tickets are no easy task to any of these venues so plan and buy them far ahead. of time... There are walking and guided to tours to almost every neighborhood and attraction but above all else I can't recommend highly enough a boat ride with the London Waterbus Company on a canal barge from Camden Lock to Little Venice along Regent's Canal. www.londonwatrbus.com
If it's your first trip you may want to take a quick look back at... Customs And Intimidation (scroll down to Britian)
Have a great week... next week I'm heading back into the kitchen with some practical advice and most likely a scrumptious recipe.
