La Dolce Vita

As I said last week we would revisit some of my favorite travel adventures... but we are taking a different trip this week than I had planned because last week  I had lunch with one of my most favorite people on the planet and she mentioned that she and her husband have a trip to Italy planned in the not so distant future and asked if I could offer any suggestions for a two week trip... so it's off to Italy (I once worked as a tour guide in Italy for a summer when I was a student and I also lived in Milan for a short time) and I've visited dozens of times so It's one place I know quite well. But I want to start by saying I'll only offer guidelines because some of the places I've stayed are much more expensive  paid in euro rather than lire... but some of the hotels I'll suggest even if you don't stay there stop by for a meal or at least a drink or cup of coffee you won't regret it.   

My friend and her husband are visiting for two weeks and that's really not enough time to see all of Italy and really experience La Dolce Vita or "The Sweet Life"... Italy for me is the place  to experience pleasures and self indulgence like no other country... and by indulgences I mean the air, the wine, the food, shopping and most importantly the people and their customs and culture... They are going off season (which to me is always a good idea especially if it's your first trip as you will not have to deal with the heat and crowds summer offers while traveling) There are a lot of different roads you can take but since they are flying into Milan I offer the following itinerary. (I have another great trip if you want to ski in the winter or take a side trip to Monaco... and another that explores the beautiful countryside and more rural areas.)

I have to start by saying  I live in a city so when I go on holiday I usually just spend a day and a night upon arrival in the city and a day and night before departing... but I have spent a great deal of time in various cities around the world and Milan like all the others you could spend two weeks there and there would still be many things you missed and have to add to your list of things to do when you come back... but the best piece of advice I can give anyone visiting a large city for the first time... (take a tour for half a day and have someone show you around ... it's the best money and four or five hours you can spend and it beats being lost and roaming around in circles for six to eight hours and not getting anywhere. (ignore this advice at your own peril)... but on the other hand if you have time to kill... getting lost is one of the best ways to learn a  new place however if your time someplace is precious have someone show you around for a few hours... Oh and one more thing... I tend to always put a few hours aside to see a museum and or some of the cities iconic landmarks... but the top of my  city  schedule is shopping and eating...

Milan is a paradise for shopping and one of the fashion and style capitals of the world the following areas of the city will offer elegant boutiques and lovely cafes and restaurants...

• Via Monte Napoleone
• Via Della Spiga
• Galleria Vittorio Emanuele

In addition La Rinascente is Milan's most famous department store and 9 Peck is a marvelous food store as well as Provera for it's wonderful selection of wine. The one thing about Milan like most cities is it's a wonderful place to people watch and a fabulous place to see all the latest fashions being modeled on the streets and in the cafes.

Even if you are not an opera fan a visit to La Scala is a must when in Milan as it is perhaps the most famous opera house in the world. (I also say the same thing about the Sydney Opera House but they could not be more different) La Scala was built in 1778 and with it's four tiers  and separate loges it's the home of Rossini and Verdi... if you are lucky enough to see a performance the acoustics in the theatre are remarkable.

Like I said earlier even if you don't stay at my recommended hotel stop by... but also check the prices through the various travel sites ( I used to travel with a friend who got us the most amazing air fares and hotel rates on line)

When I was living in Milan the first place I stayed was The Clorox Hotel (it no longer exists and was a dump years ago) but my favorite place is Hotel Principe Di Savoia... it's at the heart of the city and on a prime spot on the piazza.

One of the other pieces of advice I have for first time Italy traveling is to use the train and whenever possible travel at night... but spend a bit more money on your train fare for privacy and comfort as you will be visiting Venezia and then on to Positano, Roma and finally  Portofino and Capri.

For me Venice is one of the most romantic cities in the world; little has changed in the last 200 years from the bridges, clock towers and squares... Built in the 5th century, the entire city is an architectural wonder showcasing extraordinary buildings, bridges and waterways... the highlights include the Basilica di San Marco. the Palazzo Ducale and the church of Santa Maria della Salute. This is one city best enjoyed outside the heat of summer; the canals and the gondolas provide one of the most romantic and scenic experiences in the world. Venice is a city built on water; the canals (about 150 of them) link nearly 700 tiny islands to make what seems like a floating city. Everyone must travel by foot or boat. The Grand Canal  is lined by centuries-old palazzos with  ornate Renaissance-style facades and is spanned by the Rialto Bridge.

One of the most grand and luxurious  places I've ever stayed in my life was  Hotel Cipriani... I've also stayed at Bauer Il Palazzo, Casa Nova (Venetian apartments for short or long term rental) and Palazzo Mocenigo... I could write from now until winter about all the fabulous restaurants.

Avante... the the next stop on our tour is Positano ... if you want to skip this part and go on to Naples before heading to Rome feel free but I always like visiting because I always seem to meet the most interesting people there and have wonderful memorable experiences... it's just one of those places that I always feel at home for some reason.

Positano opens the way to the Amalfi Coast... it has a very moderate climate year round it's a former fishing village about 35 miles south of Naples... but in Positano you have the splendor  of the Tyrrhenian Sea and a chance to visit three tiny off shore islands named Li Galli.

A couple of hotels I like are Le Sirenuse and Il San Pietro Di Positano and Albergo Miramare. One of the places I always revisit for a meal is La Cambusa as the owner offers the fresh catch of the day with pasta eggplant, zucchini and fresh figs with local wines... and it's very reasonably priced.

All roads lead to Rome... I said earlier Rome is a place where I can always find something to do... (Honestly of the dozens of times I've been there I always find something new whenever I go back)

If you are a first time visitor this is another place that I suggest you take a guided tour to get your bearings before wandering off on your own to explore. I don't have a lot of hotel suggestions for Rome because I've only been to one place on my many visits ...Hotel Hassler Roma, it's one of those wonderful small hotels and as far as I'm concerned the best place to stay in Rome; if it's not your cup of tea there are many, many wonderful hotels  (I've spent the night or part of the night in many of them but I was not a registered guest if you get my drift)

For shopping visit Via Veneto, take a walk around Trastevere it's the real Rome where you will find locals and wonderful shops and coffee houses... but also visit the La Pace just west of Piazza Navona it's a  cluster of lanes where you can sit at outdoor cafes and and enjoy a cup of coffee or a cocktail and people watch... make sure you visit the Spanish Steps as there is a wonderful restaurant at Il Palazzetto or Roman Garden near Piazza di Spagna. For me Rome is the lunch and dinner capitol of the world... there are so many wonderful places to eat and drink... but my friend loves tea and if you do too make sure to visit Babington's English Tea Room on the Spanish Square. The Panella Bakery has the best bread and pastries  in the city and has expanded to a cafe.

Take the time to visit the Vatican and if you have time go to Palazzo Massimo Alle Terme... they have the most amazing collection of ancient treasures... you will be awestruck by the wealth of ancient Roman history.... and visit Galleria Borghese the building itself and the objects on display will leave you speechless... you can see Bernini's "Apollo and Daphne" and upstairs the walls are filled with Bellini, Correggio, Raphael, Rubens and Botticelli...  Last but not least visit The Colosseum and before you leave go to the Piazze di Trevi and throw a coin in the fountain and make a wish to return to Rome for another visit someday.

I don't know what I can say about Portofino except it's one of my favorite places on earth (I have a lot of favorite places in case you have not noticed)... Another place I don't have a vast background of experiences with hotels... I've only stayed at Hotel Splendido and it is splendido and so  are the restaurants... you can eat outside at the Terrazzo Restaurant or  inside for a more elegant atmosphere... but I'll take the terrazzo weather permitting as the view is sensational. Lunch is also served outside by the pool. ... I spotted the place that inspired "Enchanted April" and the movie was filmed there as well....

If you have not seen the movie you should and if you can't afford the time or money to go to Portofiino in the near future and it's dreary and cold... watch the film again... it's one of my all time favorite feel good movies. In the film the ladies rent a place called San Salvatore... it's known by the locals in Portofino as Castello Brown... and I once attended a wedding there that was unforgettable.

From here we are perfectly poised to visit Capri... This is one of the places I've been where  it was exactly as I imagined it would be. The town square is like a stage set of how Hollywood would design it.  Capri is easily reached  by ferries from Amalfi and Sorrento... Capri is one of the few places I can't offer any first hand hotel experience... I used to have a friend who had a house there and I was there a few times as a guest in a house another friend rented... and on one trip I was a guest on a yacht and we spent a few days anchored near Capri before heading out to Sardinia... the beauty of Capri is it's operated on island time and nothing is rushed. There are quaint shops (where my favorite summer sweater came from and another where my fraying straw hat was bought) ...I can't bear to part with either because they both evoke such wonderful memories of my time there. From the highest point of the island you can see the volcano of Vesuvius... that will hopefully inspire you to visit Pompeii on your next visit to Italy.

 We have not even touched the tip of the olive branch of all the beauty and splendor that Italy offers so I hope you visit more than once... but if it's a once in a lifetime trip spend an extra week or two if you can. Ciao for now... see you next week.