Just Desserts

The phrase Just Deserts is the philosophy behind the just deserts model of justice. The phrase represents the idea of a fair and appropriate punishment related to the severity of the crime that was committed. Just deserts is sometimes referred to as the 'retribution' type of sentencing. But today I'm just going to be writing only about Desserts! My absolutely favorite part of any meal... sometimes when I'm feeling particularly frisky or need a pick me up I'll have dessert for breakfast...

In past editions I've written about the past and sensory memory and how it can sometimes relate to food and taste sensations... I've got a treasure trove of dessert memories and I've fiddled around with a few of them trying to recreate them; sometimes not as successfully as others. A few weeks ago I was the lucky recipient of a cookbook titled "Lost Desserts: by Gail Monaghan... and the actual recipes for a few of my absolute favorites are included in the book...

One of my absolute favorites was Miss Grimble's Chocolate Angle Pie... Miss Grimble's was a New York City favorite in the 60's and 70's... the cakes and pies were simply out of this world amazing and I'm in total agreement with Sylvia Balser Hirsch, aka Miss Grimble that this dessert is beautiful to behold and luscious to eat... I can't wait to have an occasion to make another one... maybe I'll just celebrate without a special occasion. I recently made one for the first time and to my utter delight it was just as good as the many that I enjoyed years ago...

Here is what you need...

For the meringue crust---

4 large eggs (separated) whites at room temperature (refrigerate the yolks) I always add an extra egg white to everything unless a recipe strictly tells you not to alter anything for optimal results ( like the Neiman Marcus Popover recipe)

Large pinch of salt (this means about 1/8 of a tsp to me)

1/4 tsp cream of tartar

1 cup + 2 TBL sugar ( you should use superfine sugar when you make meringue)

1/2 tsp vanilla extract

For the filling---

12 oz semisweet chocolate chopped

5 tsp instant espresso powder (I use Medaglia D'oro)

Pinch of salt

4 large egg yolks

1 cup very cold heavy cream (I put it in the freezer for about 20 minutes in a metal bowl)

2 TBL Kahula

For the topping---

1 cup very cold heavy cream (same chilling method as above)

1/4 cup superfine sugar

1/4 cup marshmallow fluff (or Caro syrup if you don't have it on hand)

1 tsp vanilla extract

1 pint fresh strawberries hulled and sliced

1/3 cup shaved chocolate

Whenever I make a meringue I usually make it the night before and let it completely cool and then store it in an airtight container with about a 1/4 cup of rice in a cheesecloth bag to absorb any moisture.

To make the crust preheat your oven to 275 degrees and butter a 9" spring form ban and line the bottom and sides with parchment paper and butter the paper. Beat the egg whites and salt until foamy and add the cream of tartar and increase the speed of your mixer  and when they are thick slowly add the sugar  (always make sure to add the sugar very, very slowly so you don't deflate the mixture) add the vanilla and increase the speed to high (high-ish if you have a KitchenAid stand mixer) and beat until stiff and glossy and stiff peaks form. Spread the filling in the prepared pan and make a well in the center and push the mixture up the sides about 2" or so.... put the pan on a baking sheet and bake for about an hour and 10-15 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool.

For the filling---

Put the chocolate, instant espresso and salt in the top pan of a double boiler, heat until the chocolate is just melted. remove from heat and cool for a few minutes and one at a time beat in the egg yolks. let cool to room temperature.

Whip the cream and add the Kahlua and fold the chocolate and cream mixture together and refrigerate. (If truth be told I would make this the night before also and let it chill overnight in the refrigerator)

The morning before I was serving this I would assemble it and let it chill at least 4-5 hours in the refrigerator. (Take your meringue from container the and remove the sides of the pan and the parchment paper very carefully) and slip it on to a serving plate.

I made the mistake of chilling the filling while the meringue was still in the pan..  it's cumbersome but not impossible to remove successfully.

When you are ready to serve whip your cream--- whip your cream and sugar and when it starts to stiffen up add the marshmallow or syrup and a pinch of salt as it helps whipped cream stand up just a little bit better and whip the vanilla in last.  Top with the berries and shaved chocolate and serve.

If you spent any amount of time in the Los Angeles or San Francisco area in the 60's and 70's then you are likely familiar with Blum's and their mouthwatering menu... I don't know a single child or adult who did not love the Coffee Crunch Cake... (the recipe was a closely  guarded secret for years until after they closed)

So that's next on my list of things to recreate... I'll have to close my eyes to imagine the small wrought iron tables with glass tops set in a forest of lemon trees in a pink orchard... it was like eating in a magic fairy tale fantasy land...

The recipe from the Brown Derby for the Orange Chiffon cake I make for a friend for her birthday is listed as well... and the Four Seasons Christmas Fruitcake I gave you a few weeks ago. There are about sixty or so other recipes and I can't wait to try all of them.

So... enjoy what is left of the summer and don't spend too much time sweating over a hot oven or stove... and if you are lucky enough to have someone make all these wonderful things for you then give lots of hugs and kisses to say thank you.

I'm going out of my way to avoid watching any television coverage of the upcoming US Presidential elections but I've been reminded of an old fashioned phrase I remember discussing with my mother and  brother (ironically at Blum's on Wilshire Boulevard)... "Pretty Is As Pretty Does."  See you next week!